Ah China, what an experience that was – being back there!

When I travel outside of Australia I’m all for being open minded, and
adopting the motto; “difference doesn’t = wrong”, however … at times …
it is bloody hard – I have to admit!

Simply going shopping in China was probably one of the big “differences” I had to get use to! Until Beijing I had decided not to worry about purchasing anything as knew I had ample time at the end of the trip in Beijing to get myself a new summer wardrobe - that way not having to carry any of it prior hand.

On one of the mornings after the trip had ended I met my friend Cindy at Yashow Market (Beijing) - for what I had hoped to be a successful purchasing event. I arrived early, and while waiting for her, decided to have a sneak preview at what was on offer. The “sneak preview” though came at a cost of its’ own ….

“Watchie ! Watchie ! Looka! Looka ! Beautiful watchie ! Cheep ! Cheep! .
Looka ! Looka! Cheep! Cheep! Give you good Plice ! For you, my best
fliend, I give you vely special plice! 500 kuai !”

And this is what was simply said to me in passing (or trying to) the watch
area to the next – only to hear the same about shoes (“Lady Lady you wanta
shoes …”) to clothing (almost dressed upon you if you don’t walk past quick
enough) to EVERYTHING the market sells, really!

But that’s the fun of markets in places like China, the whole bargaining,
the whole “difference” factor – although it becomes wearing … and if truth
be known … wore me out to the point I just could not be bothered to “looka
looka” …. the summer wardrobe will have to wait …. Like I said
though – that’s the experience of being in a market – somewhere like China.

I did somewhat struggle, however, with trying again for that summer wardrobe
in an actual shopping mal in Beijing after the market experience – thinking the experience may be a little more relaxing. Relaxing? As an Australian, I can best equate this shopping experience to blow flies on the back of a hot and sweaty back, needing a can of aeroguard sprayed good and hard! Every time I went into any shop – be it
a bakery ( I know I know … the dumplings are great but after a while …)
or a clothing shop the shop assistants would hover over me like a pesky fly …
seriously “different” … and seriously something I had to keep reminding
myself that is was not “wrong” every time I took a step I had someone not only
just next to me, but almost on me, as I looked at the goods!

Now when I was actually in Beijing last week, I had thought about blogging
this then and there, however, reluctant as not to seem negative about the experiences
- and honestly – I am, like I said open minded and see the humour and
difference in western vs eastern equation of doing things! When I received
an email though from one of my passengers on the China trip, Felicity
Glennie-Holmes, who went onto Japan after the trip, I could not help
re-think blogging the whole shopping experience in Beijing as … what
Felicity has written just (to me) hits the nail perfectly on the head as to how “difference doesn’t = wrong” thing – every country has it’s own way!

Now, I am rather biased here, having lived in Japan for several years and
just loved it – and why I loved so much what Felicity wrote:

“But the best thing about Japan was the customer service, it was such a
plesant change after China.

Hilarious!”

I am now hanging out in Venice Beach, California. While western life here
does not provide me with the hilarity I adore about travelling in the likes
of Asia, I am all the same loving the refreshing change in everything (my
god the weather is amazing here) before I head off on my cycle Morocco trip
(with Intrepid Travel) on the weekend – I am not leading it though … that
could end in disaster if I did !!!

Until soon again,
Megan

My biggest find this time round in China was not a steal purchase at the
Silk Markets but probably the best actual Big Brown Bouch I will come to
spot in my travels – Mao’s very own one! The other day I finally met up
with my good friend Bruce – it had been a good two years since I we last
met, skyping one another in the interim! Bruce, and I use to be tour
leaders together here in China – back in 2000! He now lives in Hong Kong,
and made the effort to come to Beijing to catch up with me – amongst many
others! Bruce had lined up a photo shoot at The Red Capitol Club for his
own business (photos with an edge) – so I could not resist tagging along
with him as the ‘assistant’ photographer – introducing myself as a writer at
the same time! It seeemed the perfect way to spend a late afternoon in
Beijing – discovering more of the city’s hidden gems! And, what a find this
place was indeed!

Within the meticulously restored courtyard compound of the Red Capital Club
it’s still the 1950s. Chairman Mao is not only alive and well but has just
left the building – at least this is how it is is designed to feel like!

The likes of Mao and his inner circle of friends use to settle into leather
chairs (big brown ones)!They would enjoy Cuban cigars, a bottle of the
club’s own Red Capital Chairman’s Reserve cabernet sauvignon (“For China’s
Most Honorable Guests”), and a hearty dose of Brahm’s playful “Maostalgia.”

When you sit in the bar yourself, you have this sense of history from the
old days!

It was far from any ‘typica’l Saturday afternoon I have had of late – an
invitation to the opening of Mark and Stacey’s Hutong happenings, known as
Hutong Magic! I was thankful for the “hutong” signs that were plastered on
every corner that wrapped around the old streets of Beijing to lead me to my
destination – for no taxi could have gone where I went!

I entered the hutong, sleek with white walls but rustic as well with hints
of old Beijing in the traditional brickwork and red painted woodwork. And
there on the walls were a series of larger than life street food scenes ,
where my photographer friend Bruce ( also the joggler from post #456) is
exhibiting selected shots from a food book he is writing. I wanted to
support his artistic journey and bought three pieces which will look
fantastic in my Melbourne kitchen. I will shortly send my three favourite
shots for you to view …

In the meantime you yourself can see more of Bruce’s art pieces at
www.photoswithanedge.com

From Bruce’s photo exhibition ( I am now further inspired – I want to
upgrade my camera but Bruce assures me his talent is within the ‘eye’ ) to
traditional tea ceremony demonstrations to Reiki demonstrations to cooking
classes it was all happening within a hutong of a kind. A BBQ and drinks
ended the evening on the rooftop of the hutong – higher than their
neighbouring rooftops, allowing for amazing views that spanned across new
and old Beijing.

In one word – I’m impressed

Above: The fun and games of spending time in the waiting room at Taiyuan Train Station! 

Would you go to your local train station, sing loudly; “I love you” in one
of the waiting rooms – you know, just to kill time? Attracting the
attention of the entire room – should you even dare to? More-over – would
you be thought of as a “hit” – in the process of humming a tune? I
wouldn’t (normally), and my guess would be that you wouldn’t – but then I
could be quite wrong …

Just the other day though I found myself in exactly the above scenario.
Well, not entirely (I admit) as it wasn’t my local train station – I’d at
least want to be a final contestant for Australian Idol if I were to pull
such an act at Flinders Street Station in Melbourne!!! There in the middle
of Taiyuan Train Station, with my group (all waiting to board our Beijing
bound train), I sang (in Chinese) “I Love You”! That would thus be; “Wo Ai
Ni”! Why? Well, for some apparant reason we all became the “attraction” of
the moment – simply sitting there waiting for our train. How to best
describe this … hmmm … it was like the 13 of us made up a foreigne
circus act for the locals (waiting for their train) by simply sitting there
… as they all gave us such intense stares of curiousity. Our standard
acts ranged from changing memory cards in our cameras to fumbling for words
in our Chinese phrase books in a means to communicate with all – all who
either stood at arms length from us or rather … simply leant right over
our shoulders! And, so that is when one of my passengers said; “Megan, do
something!” Like “something” basically that would take the attention off of
me!!! “What?”, I thought … I mean my Chin-Oz can only take my so far …
And, so that is when I just stood up and sang (in my best Chinese) “Wo Ai
Ni” over and over (and over) again. I suddenly felt like the Kylie Minouge
of the East – or at the very least The Pide Piper (drawcard for locals
versus rats). If some of the locals were formally missing from our crowd
then after a few lines of “Wo Ai Ni” they certainly weren’t. I was
confident that at one stage I had the eyes of every commuter on me. The
problem then became not stage fright, but lack of lyrics beyond “Wo Ai Ni”!
I mean I could have, in my usual tradition of speaking the language, have
blended every single word of Chinese I know into a song but then it would
have gone something like this …

“I love you, 150 yuan, too expensive, don’t want, 120 yuan, I love you,
goodbye, hello, 100 yuan, I love you, dumplings, vegetarian, 20 yuan, I love
you …”

Mind you, with the right beat it could have made for an interesting song?

So, I am not sure if I am a strong contender for ‘China Idol’ or not. I gave
it my best shot but I really think that I need to work on my lyrics … The
makings were hilarious, and I am now just wondering if Darrell gave me the
wrong job – blogging as opposed to singing? Some, I believe would say he
gave me the right one …

Actually, it was Darrell himself who pointed out something quite true when I
sent him this picture the other day – for a sneak preview of my hidden
talent. He commented on the fact that I actually got the Chinese to smile!
True true … it is not an easy thing to do here. They pretty much all look
harder than a week old dumpling! And, it was only the other day waiting for
the local bus in Pingyao on our way to Taiyuan ( I tell you – local
transport is so the way to go for those “real life experiences”) that I
asked some of the group members if they wanted to join me in a little game
of “Let’s make the locals smile” – again to kill time. It was simple. We
were standing on the side of the road, and so everytime someone either
walked or rode by we would say a huge “Ni Hao” (hello)! I have to say that
about 9/10 it worked – but trust me we worked hard to bellow out those “Ni
Haos”!

I’ll let you know how I get on in some other parts of the nation. I’m
guessing not as good here in Beijing as clearly it seems that the locals
here have had way more contact with foreigners than the local folk of
Taiyuan!

It was a simple transit stop that certainly became a highlight of the trip!

Do you remember me mentioning finding on the menu at the Yinbo Hotel Cafe
(in Shanghai); “Our Quality Tea Leads to Relaxation”? Never mind if not,
but the thing is, I have been thinking about should the Chinese really be an
entrepreneural nation how they could be making a killing (in fortune)
selling this tea to foreigners when visiting China for encounters like road
crossings – should it actually work! “Work”? Even if it didn’t, like most
products, the surely the pyschological aspect would have some effect …

And, not just for the roads but for pretty much everything. Like take for
example checking out of a hotel here – what SHOULD be a simple proceedure!
Ah yes, where was the “Quality Tea That Leads To Relaxation” when I needed
it recently during my trip? When it can take up to or more than 30 minutes
to check out of a hotel! If I had had a cup in preparation (in my room)
before heading down to the reception desk I’d be like bring on the “Meiyou”
(meaning no, can’t do, won’t do, can’t be bothered, go away as you are a
foreigner and I just do not want to deal with you … MEIYOU!) that is said
time in and time out! With a cup of quality tea leading to relaxation I’d
be able to deal better with the time it simply takes to hand in my room key
(10 minutes), have housekeeping swear that one of my passengers has stolen a
plastic coat hanger from their room (10 more minutes), explaining that they
really did not take the 10 cent coathanger and would prefer luggage space
for a replica Terracotta Warrior (further 10 minutes), and hand over our
luggage for safe keeping until we come back and head off to the train
station (a final 10 minutes)!

Yes, a fortune there to be made – someone just needs to see the value within
the Chinglish of the cafe menu of the Yinbo Hotel! As a leader, I’d for
sure have a couple of packets for all my passengers to add to their lovely
blue Intrepid Travel Responsible Travel Bags given out at the group meeting.
Amongst the China guidebook, chopsticks, and itinerary would be …
several packets of “Our Quality Tea That Leads To Relaxtion”! Perfect for
leading styles like mine. Have myself and the group miss the local bus (as
I did) to one of China’s great historical sights? No problem – leader and
group drinks some tea! Passengers have squatting anxiety on trip? No
problem – they drink some tea! Trying to breath as we sight-see China with
10 Billion locals chain smoking and spitting on the streets as we go? No
problem – leader and group drinks some tea! Stuck in a taxi who can’t speak
English and can’t read the Chinese directions handed over to him – ending up
on the other side of Beijing? No problem – drink some tea!

Personally, I am more of a coffee drinker but I tell you what, the more time
I spend here in China I am all for drinking tea of this nature!

So it has been a long few days – arriving into Beijing – trekking the Great
Wall for two days in the heat – the final night dinner tonight and now …
it is near midnight and this here leader come blogger is about to fall
asleep on the keyboard. Plenty more to write about when fresh with coffee
in the next few days ….

So yes, here I am in Pingyao – world heritage site where Raise the Red Lantern was filmed. Pingyao is wild … I love it … once I escape the crowds … The old town is enclosed within an intact wall that you can walk on top right around it – depending on speed (and it does say “no striding” up there) you can make it around in about 1hr. It will be my morning walk after this post … I think I might aim for 2 laps …. From the wall is it great looking down into the courtyards of people’s homes and just life on the streets in general!

I had a massage yesterday after a lap of the wall just to recover from the heat. Given I could not access email at all yesterday it was frustrating – had to experience a few things instead. The thing is, in hindsight, I could have just stood in the middle of one of these busy streets and been knocked down by motorized rickshaw and the effect would have been the same – bloody painful! I have had some good massages in my time in China but that was not one of them!

Due to accessing email, the posts have been a little random – sorry! Xian came and went with little mention but best summed up as: “Don’t step on the grass – it’s too convenient” (keep to the concrete paths when walking in the parks around the city walls).

It was a later train departure than the last – out of Xian bound for Pingyao where we are now. Sipped on “Shanghai Summers” farewelled Shanghai! Sipped on “Xian Shandys” (the latest train beverage) farwelled Xian! “Xian Shandys”:- a mix of Mandarin Vodka, 7-UP (served warm from train station vendor), Bravo Multivitamin Juice and a slice of lemon! With a change of drink was a change in train experience … a little more of a rustic carriage … open window airconditioning … One thing though remained the same – lights out at 10pm! Getting to the station questioned whether or not we were on the basix style trip or … the active style … When our bus driver dropped us about 700m down the road from the station it was thought at one point the active as we all had to load up like mules and walk back to the station entrance!

This afternoon is the 3rd overnight train experience. The choice of drink is yet unknown! We are Beijing Bound!

It is time to send this before the likely happens – the computer shuts down
….
Until Beijing ….

So anyhow, how did you wake up this morning by the way – huh? Not sure
about yourself (and do feel welcome to share) but allow me to tell you about
my morning! No alarms needed to wake us (myself and the group) all up on
the train this morning. Instead – slurping noodles, Chinese (love ?) songs
(better than Kenny G anyhow – must have been banned on the T138 route since
I was last here), and the loud chatter amongst the locals around us did a
fairly good job (bloody brilliant one if truth be known) … at
approximately 6am! My group were in the two open compartments (in same
carriage) next to me and I shared one with the locals. Sorry, but listening
to those noodles being sucked up at a fairly good rate was not conducive to
further sleep! Ni Hao – Hello to a whole new day ahead …

I love the overnight train journeys (especially when we actually make it to
the right station ) – in countries like China! Our journey was in the
hard sleeper carriage (which in fact is really quite comfortable) and great
for local interaction as other than ourselves – the rest were locals!
Before even getting onto the train, waiting in the station is amusing
enough. One of the girls (Laura) spent her time waiting using her
blackberry. Digital cameras are old hat methods in amusing the locals these
days – well – it seemed that way as Laura sure received some close looks
right over her shoulder (actually – I think the kids were actually leaning
ON her shoulder) at what she was using! We particularly made friends on the
train with one of the little girls – maybe she was about 5 years old – hard
to say! After mastering “hello” it was time to teach her some new words,
however, the right cute little missy that she was I don’t think that English
will take her as far as her potential modelling career – yes – she was
strutting the spat on, peanut shell encrusted rug that aligned the
thoroughfare of the carriage like it was the red carpet – and us … the
paparazzi! Then she was swinging off the ladder attached to the bunk beds
for more photos – with that cheeky smile of hers and of course that newly
founded word; “hello”! Meanwhile outside it was seen at one point 14 work
men in uniforms sitting on the opposite train tracks with 2 only actually
working on them!

A lot of fun was had on the journey. Bar T138 (train number) opened (from
memory) at about 5 minutes before the train pulled out of Shanghai Station.
We have a new drink. It is called:-

“Shanghai Summer”:-

*Bottle of Gin (a rare find in Shanghai at a little corner store near the
Yinbo Hotel)
*Hot to warm 7-Up (can buy from train vendors)
*Several green mandarins (because apparantly Felicilty (Felicity, who by the
way eats and trys so many glutinous Chinese sweets that it is now believed
that no foreign bug could possibly make its’ way into her intestine system)
thought that in the markets they were limes … )

Add proportionate amounts to a plastic cup (can find in backstreet
supermarkets) and stir with chopsticks (from the Intrepid Travel responsible
bag kit!)

Serve warm and enjoy!

If “Shanghai Summers” were not the drink of the group then the beers slipped
down nicely for the others! The lights were out at 10pm and it was made
sure that last toilet calls were made by then as it was hard to imagine what
would happen if one slipped in the dark beyond that time …

The group are now off wandering the fascinating streets of Xian. Should I
buy a fake Terracotta Warrior and take it back to Nth Melbourne like a
garden gnome? Housemate – are you reading? So it is time to go and wander
myself … I am sorry I can’t get any images up on to the blog now but when
I get out of “block-blog-country” (China) I can add some!

Until soon …. Megan

So, I am not sure who has been reading my blog entries of late – and a
little spread out (sorry) due to Chinese technacalities – smoke-filled
internet cafes – lack of them (can see the need though to keep these places
at a minimum) – slow connection – noise level at higher than desirable
levels (often makes thinking even more blurred in the smoke) – etc …! But
anyhow, if you have, then you may remember that my last post talked about
how far looking puzzled gets me! Now then, let me tell you about how far
looking panicked got me yesterday, with my group in tow, and how I wished
that I had had prior to leaving the Yinbo Hotel (Shanghai) from their cafe;
“our quality tea lead to relaxation”!

OK so at 2.30pm yesterday (Monday) we were all on track – my group (12) and
I. To keep the group together I decided to arrange a local mini bus from
one of our operators to take us to the Bus Station – rather than 4 taxis. I
said “bus” station – NOT “train station. We had a scheduled public bus to
take us to Wuzhen (gorgeous canal town) leaving at 3.45pm. We left the
hotel on time at 2.30pm (group are great for punctuality) and like I said I
believed that we were right on track … until … we ended up at the train
station rather than … yes … are you with me now … the bus station!
Given I had never been to the bus station here before I did not know what it
would look like (just had faith in my organisation that we would be lead to
the RIGHT station) however as soon as we arrived I knew we were in (big)
trouble for there was no way that such a HUGE modern state of the art
looking station (better than Spencer St. in Melbourne, Victoria St. in
London and, Washington DC St in – well – Washington DC). I mean I could
have been wrong, and by god I had hoped at that point I was but seriously
… if such a bus station looked like that to take us to the little canal
town then I would have been impressed! With just 45 minutes to spare I had
to think quick smart … and with NO Chinese language skills my charades
were at their world champion level best … To add to my exceeding heart
rate one of my passengers was really ill and about to throw up in the midst
of my crisis (or was it hers?) – needing a bathroom desperately – as
desperately as I wanted to see a bus station appear before me! Keeping my
calm (because I remember in leading training to look like a swan and then
paddle furiously under water in situations like this (man I was a hot sweaty
bloody swan that was for sure then) I went for help. Before we knew it one
of the X-Ray women at the train station took us under her wing (she was a
fiesty swan) when I showed her my bus tickets and the time – no language
needed – the bus tickets at the train station about said it all really. It
is hard to ascertain at that point who had the best panic-stricken look
bestowed upon their face – me or her! At a speed I wished those on the
actual streets of Shanghai would walk, she hurried us throughout the
station. In the meantime Brooke was desperate to throw up and go find a
bathroom … but you can imagine MY desperation … “Just do it in the bag,
sorry, and follow follow follow” … The other 11 were just going with the
flow and now and then I turned to them with my fake smile (calm swan calm
swan) of re-assurance!

Fiesty swan lead us to the police station within the train station. There
was a loud clatter of conversation between her and the uniformed men. In
fact … seriously … she looked more panic-stricken than me come to think
of it! I then went into 5th gear leader mode and just grabbed the phone on
the policeman’s desk and called our operator to help – help urgently! There
was no time for the “sorrys” from her (I told her they would come later) but
for now we needed to get to Wuzhen – fast! And about at this time I wanted
another slice of what the Yinbo Hotel we had left had to offer at their cafe
- “Gracetul leisure with affordable price” – yep – some gracetul (I am sure
they meant graceful) and affordability … not the extra money I had to fork
out to get the driver who dropped us at the station to then pick us up again
and take us to Wuzhen – 2hrs away!

Miraculously at just 15 minutes later than when the bus would have left we
were on the road … not always at times though given that the driver had
never been to the tranquil gorgeous water canal town of Wuzhen and so at
times he was to be seen stopped in the middle of the intersection – with
traffic going different directions either side of us – whilst on his cell
phone ascertaining directions from … anyone really!

Finally at 6.30pm we arrived at the Ziye Hotel – Wuzhen. A gorgeous hotel -
even if Kenny G serenaded us into the reception area. Passports were
quickly flung over the reception desk, keys handed out at same speed,
English to Chinese – Chinese to English translated badly for help (me still
in Charades mode) all before dumping bags in the room and then bums on
rickshaws to head off to see Xizha – one of the old town sections lit up at
night – stunning – and most of all … calm and peaceful! Now then, I do
not normally drink beer but one sure slipped down well over dinner last
night within the old town – a local beer named “Swallow” – indeed perfect!

After exploring more of the old town in daylight today we finally took the
actual bus back to Shanghai (I was certain we would make it even if we got
there 45 minutes before it left in a close to a tin shed envrionment) to
leave behind the Ziye Guesthouse that tells you in the shower; “please pave
the rug well to prevent from slipping and showe on it” for yet again the
Yinbo that tells you along with the gracetul leisure that “if you have
affair please call housekeeping on 2730″! OK … will do … but in this
heat and my proposed purchase of some PJs – I think housekeeping safe from
hearing from me!!!!!

My group are out watching the acrobats at this moment. I will join them
back at the hotel soon for a much needed cocktail at “the” M on the Bund -
equisite establishment for drinks with a supreme view over the river. Not
normally for Intrepid Travel Basic style clientele but the best of us have
some swishness in us Right?

Tomorrow we take the train (not bus) to Xian. I’ll be in touch about that
journey … one day at a time … one day at a time … Thank god I told my
group in the initial group meeting that a sense of humour was required at
all times when travelling in China – or was I meant to say; “when travelling
with me”? ….

Simply getting off the flight yesterday was enough to tell me I was back in
China. The push and shove once the aircraft stopped, by seemingly locals,
to get off the plane and through customs was on for young and old. I have
never understood the rush – at some point we all come to a halt either at
the customs line up or waiting for our baggage and seem to exit at about the
same time in the end anyhow! I can’t say it would have anything to do with
the up and coming Olmypics because this has been my experience in China
years ago! Simply checking into my room was enough to tell me I was back in
China … the airconditioning did not work and so I asked to have it looked
at (it is really really hot and humid here in Shanghai) … and so there I
sat and watched several men dressed in their blue trade-uniform with their
tool kit and ladder to try and fix the situation … The result? Let’s just
say that feeling cool is going to be about as cool as the beers get here -
and that’s not very! I did try one more time to have the aircon looked at
and the result? “Sorry, bye”! OK … Yes, I am back in China! Otherwise
the hotel is in a great location near the Bund and the rooms are clean and
comfy (gosh – last night also reminded me though of how hard the mattress is
- good for the back?). The motto of the Yinbo hotel, according to a sign in
my room is “We work hard to see your smile”! Love it … I tell you .. keep
that airconditioning from working and then they will be on the right track
with me – that is for sure !!!

I am spending my time re-exploring the Shanghai I last knew back in 2002 …
so far it looks the same with a few more space-like buildings popping up
here there are everywhere. Still crowded with 1000s walking in any
direction not looking where they are going (bit like the traffic), still
being asked if I want to buy a cheap watch “lady lady look look” … I spent
my evening sitting at an outdoor restaurant on the Bund soaking in the
atmosphere at the same time as a coctail, looking out on Huangpu River where
glitzy tacky tourist boats went up and down! The sidewalk was crowded with
mainly locals – either residents or local Chinese tourists. It is a
stunning area to hang out at night – especially after a stinking hot day as
it is pleasant at night with a breeze – a huge relief!

So now, my group have started to come in dribs and drabs with the group
meeting to be held tonight and then it is all go go go …

Reporting live from within the heat, humidity, smoke and madness of China